Monday, October 7, 2013

ON TOP OF OLD SMOKEY



                                         

                                              ON TOP OF OLD SMOKEY

            The SMOKEY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK in east Tennessee and western North Carolina was chartered by congress in 1934 and dedicated by Franklin D. Roosevelt in 1940.  Unlike national parks in the west which were founded on federal property, the land for the SMNP had to be purchased parcel by parcel with the largest number of private parcels on the Tennessee side.  The park was funded by private contributions, the largest from John D. Rockefeller (Five million dollars), some by the federal government, but a large portion of it by ordinary people and school children from the area.  It is the most visited national park in the country.


           
                                                          VIEW FROM NEWFOUND GAP


            The park has been a source of recreation and inspiration for me for many years, beginning in the 1960’s.  I have hiked the 76 miles of the Appalachian Trail across the top ridge of the mountains from Fontana Lake in the southwest corner to Cosby in the northeast corner.  I have run the 11 mile loop in Cades Cove as well as the Smokey Mountain Marathon and Five mile Run in Townsend.  I have done research and written a paper on the controversy surrounding the Elkmont Cabins.  It was, thus, with great anticipation that I planned a visit to the park in October more than six weeks ago.  To my dismay, the park was “shut down” just days before I was to go because of the political impasse in congress in Washington.  But I was determined not to let a little “shutdown” deter me.  Ironically, I was hiking in the park when the government shut down in 1995.
            Before I left on my trip to the GSMNP last Friday, October 4, I read that Highway 441 from Gatlinburg across the mountain to Cherokee, NC, would remain open.  Since this road transverses the heart of the park with spectacular views, especially from Newfound Gap, I knew I would be able to at least drive across the park even though I would not be able to hike on any of the trails, drive up to Clingman’s Dome, or drive through Cades Cove. 
            On Saturday, October 5, after a delicious breakfast in Gatlinburg, I began the drive up to Newfound Gap, an uphill trip of about 17 miles.  As I got higher the hardwood forests of the lower elevations had changed to a spruce and fir forest typical of Canadian flora.  To my surprise Newfound Gap was overrunning with peple.  Evidently, other people who loved the mountains and the park were not going to be deterred either.  There was a festive atmosphere.  People were taking pictures, eating lunches they had brought, talking to each other and enjoying a sparkling October day with the tinge of fall colors on the trees.  A quick survey of the car tags indicated that people from all over the eastern U.S. had come to the park.  One family said they had been doing this every year for years and they were bound and determined to come this year, no matter what. 
            As inspiring as the scenery was, perhaps the most moving experience occurred when I saw a group of soldiers with backpacks in the parking lot.  They told me they were from Fort Campbell and had come to the mountains to get some mountain hiking experience before they left soon for Afghanistan.  I asked if I could take their picture and they became willing subjects.   It easily is one of the best pictures I have taken.  I will treasure the photo and the young men who embodied the great American spirit of sacrifice for the greater good.



           
                                                  SOLDIERS FROM FORT CAMPBELL

            These young men are in many ways like the young men of the 1930’s.  They volunteered for a program sponsored by the federal government.  In 1935 the country was in the midst of the “Great Depression.”  There were few, if any, jobs available to young men of that time, especially young men from the cities.  One of the programs initiated by President Franklin Roosevelt was the CIVILIAN CONSERVATION CORPS (the CCC).  There is a plaque at Newfound Gap honoring these men.  Here are two excerpts from that plaque:








            AS I was reading this board, another man beside me said, “You know, a program like this couldn’t pass in congress today.”  Sad but true I said.  But this reference to the CCC stirred a number of memories in my head.  One was from the time I was five years old, 75 years ago.  There was a CCC camp across the street from my grandmother’s house in Albany, Ga.  I remember seeing the “camp” and all the men. If fact, as I later discovered, my mother’s sister married one of those young men.
            Another memory was of being in Pickett State Park on the Cumberland Plateau north of Jamestown, TN.  There are these beautiful cabins made of native stone still there which were constructed by CCC men.  With a little research I found out that in Tennessee in the 1930’s there were about 70,000 young men in the CCC.  They were working in 17 state parks as well as the SMNP.  They planted trees, cut trails, built cabins and walls and did a multitude of constructive work which remains to this very day.  I am reminded anew that every time I visit a state park in Tennessee – whether to camp, picnic, or play golf -  I am benefiting from the legacy of young men from the 1930’s who found meaningful work through a creative program of the federal government.  It is a reminder that in good times and in bad times, we are all in this together.

For further reading about the CCC in Tennessee, see the following:
Tennessee Encyclopedia
Civilian Conservation Corps

            All in all, I consider my weekend trip to the Smokies well worth the effort.  I came away feeling that the strength of America is in its people, not in its politicians.  It’s in the people who in essence say, You may shut the park down but we are coming anyway.  It’s in those young men who volunteered to serve their country even though it means putting oneself in harm’s way. It’s in our natural resources and the natural beauty which belongs to and nourishes us all.  I came home reinforced in my belief that we are, indeed, all in this together. 

Let me leave you with one more view from Newfound Gap:







            NEWFOUND GAP, GREAT SMOKEY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK